Tuesday, June 26, 2018

Gentle Mint-Chip Ice Cream

Mint-chip has always been my favorite ice cream, but I know many people don't love it. As my husband put it "I don't feel the need to eat toothpaste."
This mint-chip recipe, taken from SeriousEats, is a different story. Rather than having an aggressive, tooth-pasty flavor, it has a delicate, gentle minty freshness, with hints of something sweet and herbal. It is also, you will note, not a bright green. The chocolate chips are crunchy delicious nuggets of goodness.

Note: This recipe requires an ice cream maker, and of course you do need to make sure your maker container is pre-frozen. You also need to take into account time to steep the mint leaves, and allow the mixture to cool. So if you're planning to serve it in the evening, you need to start in the morning, or preferably make it a day in advance. 


Gentle Mint-Chip Ice Cream


Ingredients (for about 1 qt/1 liter of ice cream): 
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1 large or two small bunches fresh mint (or na'na) leaves
- 6 egg yolks
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 4 oz/ 110 grams dark chocolate 
- 2 tbsp neutral oil such as vegetable or canola 

Preparation: 
1. Heat the cream and milk in a medium saucepan until just simmering. Remove from heat, stir in the mint leaves, cover, and allow to steep for two hours. 

2. When the leaves are ready, put the yolks and sugar in another saucepan, and stir until combined. Using a fine sieve, strain the minty cream/milk mixture into the egg/sugar mixture, and then press on the mint leaves to get as much of the flavor as possible. Discard the leaves. 

3. Put the saucepan on medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until you get a smooth custurd-like texture, that coats the back of a spoon. You know it's ready when you can draw a line through the custard on the spoon with your finger and have it stay there, without having the custard flow back together. Note that the custard will not be very thick. 

4. Pour the custard through a fine sieve into an airtight container. Place in the fridge for at least several hours, and up to overnight, until it is quite cold. 

5. Place the ice cream into your ice cream maker and churn per instructions. While it's churning, place the chocolate and the oil into a microwave-safe bowl, and melt carefully (put in for 30 seconds, sit, then again, until the chocolate is fully melted, but not burnt). 

6. When the ice-cream is almost fully churned, but not quite, pour the chocolate into the ice cream maker and allow to churn with the ice cream, creating ribbons of chocolate bits in the ice cream. If your ice cream is already too hard to turn at this point, just turn off the maker, and vigorously stir in the chocolate by hand. 

7. Transfer ice cream to an airtight container and allow to harden for a few hours before serving.

Enjoy!
 

Monday, June 11, 2018

Drunken Noodles

I sometimes find making Asian recipes at home a bit frustrating, because they never seem to get the same depth of flavor that they have in a good restaurant. So this particular recipe blew my mind, because it really had that complexity you want from a satisfying noodle dish.

The source of the recipe was a surprise in itself: the cookbook "Cravings", by Chrissy Teigen. I got this book on a whim, and it has proven to be one of the best cookbooks I've seen in a long time. I've already made five or six recipes from it, and they were all a smashing success. The book does have one disadvantage, which is that it has almost no vegetarian recipes. This recipe is no exception, using chicken and oyster sauce in the original version. But here I give you my own vegetarian twist on Chrissy's recipe. Since the original recipe included egg, I decided to just leave it there as my source of protein. But you can also use some tofu seasoned with salt and sesame oil and stir fried in oil until crispy, and either use it with the egg for a vegetarian recipe, or without it for a vegan version.

A Note for the Gluten Free about Whisky: 
Grain alcohols and gluten are a tricky thing. In theory, distilled grain alcohol (like vodka) shouldn't contain any gluten (or at least less than the requisite 20 ppm), due to the distillation process. Nonetheless, some celiacs still say they have reactions to such alcohol. Whisky is even more complicated, because some whisky producers add a bit of the mash back into the product after distillation. For our version of this recipe, we used Jack Daniels bourbon, because they have a very clear and unequivocal Gluten Free statement on their website. However, if you're still concerned about using a grain-based drink, you can replace it with rum or brandy, or just skip the booze altogether.

Drunken Noodles 




Ingredients (for 5-6 satisfying portions): 

 Sauce: 
- 6 tbsp light brown sugar
-  1/2 cup soy sauce (make sure to use GF for a gluten free version)
- 1/4 cup teriyaki sauce (again, make sure to use GF)
- 2 tbsp of whisky (see note above)
- 1 tbsp mirin
- 1 tbsp sriracha sauce
- 2 cloves of garlic, chopped

For dish: 
- 350 grams/12 oz of rice noodles, preferably the wide kind, softened according to the package instructions 
- 3 tbsp canola or vegetable oil
- 4 eggs, beaten
- 4 scallions (green onions), chopped
- 4 cloves of garlic, minced
- 2 tbsp minced fresh ginger
- 4 cups broccoli florets
- 1/2 cup vegetable broth

Preparation: 
1. Combine all of the sauce ingredients in one bowl.

2. Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a large wok, add the eggs, and cook, stirring, until just cooked. Set aside in a bowl, and give the wok a quick wipe to clean some of the egg residue.

3.  Heat the remaining 2 tbsp of oil in the wok, and when it begins to smoke, add in the scallions, ginger and garlic. Cook, stirring, for about 20 seconds. Add the broccoli and broth and cook, stirring, until the broccoli turns a bright green and the broth is mostly gone, about 3-4 minutes.

4. Add the softened noodles and the egg back into the wok, and add the sauce. Cook for another 4-5 minutes, stirring or tossing the mixture, until the noodles are fully cooked, everything is warm, and the sauce thickens.

5. Served, optionally topped with some more scallions.

Enjoy!


Saturday, June 9, 2018

Knish (Onion and Potato Pastries)

A curious fact about Israel is that a lot of the foods typically associated with Jewish cuisine in the US, are virtually unknown to Israelis. For example, until a few years ago, you couldn't get a bagel in Israel to save your life, and even now supermarkets rarely sell them. Knishes are a similar deal. You can find Burkeas in every store, but I can't remember the last time I saw a knish anywhere.
So when a recurrences of pop-culture references to Knish made me crave some, there was no choice but to make them myself.

I opted for a version in which the potatoes and onion are mashed together to make a smooth filling, because I have a kid who will happily eat these just as long as there are no visible oniony-bits. If you prefer a bit more texture, add the onions in after you mash the potatoes.

The knishes can be made gluten free (the ones in the picture are!), but it does require having an excellent gluten free all purpose flour that you trust, as you do need to make a dough that is flexible enough to roll and delicious enough to eat.

Knish


 Ingredients (for 20-30 small knishes): 
For filling: 
- 3-4 potatoes (about 500 grams/1 lb), peeled and chopped into medium chunks.
- 1 large onion, diced.
- 3 tbsp oil, for frying.
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp sugar (optional, although it gives a nice richness of flavor)
- 1/2 tsp black pepper 

For dough:
- 2 cups all purpose flour
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1 egg
- 1/2 cup warm water
- 1/4 cup oil
- 1/2 tsp salt

For finishing: 
- 1 egg yolk beaten with a bit of milk

Preparation: 
1. Put the potatoes in a medium pot, cover with salted water, and cook on medium heat until the potatoes are soft. Drain.

2. While you wait, put frying oil in a pan, add the onions and cover. Sautee over medium-low heat until the onions are soft and translucent, then remove the lid and allow the onions to become golden-brown. Remove from heat.

3. Mash together the potatoes, onions, salt, sugar and pepper, either in a food processor, using a stick-blender, or using a masher, until very smooth. Remember: if you want to keep the onion texture, add the onions after the mashing process. Check for taste. The seasoning should be quite strong (stronger than you would want in mashed potatoes that you eat straight up), because there's only a bit of filling in each knish.

4. Prepare the dough: Preheat oven to 175 C/350 F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.  In a large bowl, beat the egg and water together, then add the oil and the salt and mix. Gradually add the flour, about 1/2 cup at a time, and mix thoroughly. When it starts to come together as a dough, start kneading, first in the bowl, then out on a well floured surface. The dough should feel smooth, not sticky, and elastic. If it's too sticky to knead comfortably, add some more flour. Knead for a few minutes to develop the gluten (or just until you have a usable nice dough, if you're making this GF).

5. Divide the dough into two balls. On a well floured surface, shape the first ball into a flat rectangle, and roll until very thin and quite large (about 30X20 cm, or 13X9 inches). Do the same with the other ball of dough.

6. Cut each rectangle into two, lengthwise (so you have two long and narrow pieces). Place about a quarter of the filling lengthwise along the center of each piece, then roll the dough (like a swiss roll) around the filling. Repeat for all the pieces.

7. Using a sharp knife, slice each roll into pieces, about 2.5 cm/1 inch long. Carefully lift each piece and place it, cut side down, in the baking tin, then gently push together the top section over the potato filling to slightly "close" the knish. This is a bit messy, and don't worry if it doesn't close altogether. The results are meant to be rustic.

8. When all of the knishes are placed on the baking tin, with a bit of distance between each one, brush them with the egg/milk mixture. Place in the over and bake for about 35-40 minutes, until the knishes are golden and fully baked.

Enjoy!